Top Ten – London Fashion Week Shows
Welcome to Xclusive Touch’s new ‘Top Ten’ fashion edit. Each week we will focus on ten things that are taking the fashion world by storm to ensure that you’re not left behind, and what a better week to start than the one and only London Fashion Week! Yippee!
London Fashion Week saw both iconic and up and coming designers showcase their S/S14 collections upon Somerset House’s cobbled paths. Fashionistas from all over the world flocked in to the unveiling of the designers greatly anticipated catwalks and we’re here to give you the top ten designers that all your high street bargains will be based on come next spring!
Top of our list is of course Ashish who was no stranger to his trademark sequin look. Describing the line perfectly, Ashish Gupta said he was ‘inspired by popping down the off license, you know when you just put your slippers on and have the jewelry from last night on still’. With his iconic ‘twisted glamour’ aspect ever so present, shabby chic was propelled down the catwalk in embellished ripped jeans, sequined carrier bags and of course a few glitzy slip dresses for good measure. The famous ‘Enjoy Coca Cola’ logo also made an appearance emblazed across many of the pieces, with the classic faux pas of odd socks also present. The show left us not only inspired by corner shop fashion, but also humming Amerie’s 2005 hit ‘One Thing’, which gave the models a stark power trip down the catwalk.
As expected, PPQ brought colour to the catwalk and lots of it, adhering to their usual blurred crossover of catwalk clubbing. Fierce yellows and billowing trails strutted the catwalk as the front row of Ellie Goulding looked on. Sweet heart necklines and satin finishes screamed party and there was plenty of leg on show with mid-thigh hitting fabrics. No S/S collection is complete without a bolshy print and PPQ went tropical with abstract splashes of colour. The show also saw up and coming model Evangeline Ling open showcasing heavy eyed makeup and plum lips. The show ended with an unusually pale colour palette of monochrome showing there’s much more to PPQ next seasons collection than just an impressive colour palette.
If a show opens with Delevingne, you know you’re in for a treat. Mulberry yet again impressed all critics with the creative director, Emma Hill, proving her place in fashion royalty before her departure. Emulating Mulberys typical British heritage, delicate, grey toned floral’s sashayed down the catwalk with two pieces securing their position above the once loved dress. Abstract flowers were offered upon silk pyjama style garments with each look topped off with the classic mulberry designed bag. Muted oranges seem to be a hit for next season as well with button up styles being presented to an impeccable front row of Wintour, Chung and our favourite IT girl Tanya Burr. The collection ended with an array of textured whites, the staple summer colour.
FELDER FELDER //
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The Felder sisters opened LFW with a splash unveiling their aquatic inspired collection as one of the first shows of the 5 days. Blue hued dresses and waved chiffon created a collection that left everyone wishing they were at a beach rather than London’s drab weather. Dani and Annette described the line as ‘Romantic, fearless, modern and confident’ which is definitely the case with the revealing sheer fabrics and high hem lines. Great Barrier Reef inspired textures highlighted the intricate designs that went into the fabrics and prints showing how far the girls have come from S/S12’s simple structures. The collection closed with a darker colour palette and knicker style hemlines which suited the slicked back wet hair well.
HAIZHEN WANG //
Central Saint Martins graduate Haizhen Wang took a much to a much lighter colour palette for S/S14 in comparison to his other collections debuted at LFW but kept his trademark dark accents and straight cut styles. Structured tailoring was celebrated in all its monochromed masculinity with stiff fabric blazers paired with round necks, a style made more wearable with bare legs and slouchy boots. Biker style jackets were also present yet again with twists of leather and gilet designs present. Silver metallic and a touch of blue adhered to the dull yet workable colour palette. Wangs designs show truly how masculine femininity paired with architectural references and impeccable quality mean that you don’t have to stick to florals whenever the sun makes an appearance.
BURBERRY PRORSOM //
Long-standing supporter and mentor of emerging British design talent and Chief Creative Officer of Burberry, Christopher Bailey impressed all with his pastel based collection this LFW. Muted shades of greens, pinks and greys walked the catwalk with classic Burberry cuts and shapes featured. Maturity and elegance is what Burberry emulates in all collections and this collection was no different with mid length pencil skirts and collared blazers completing almost every look. Embellished applique added a hint of night time glamour to the somewhat sheer pencil fit designs. An element of the working woman sex appeal was in plenty supply with lingerie style lace revealing matching, colour coordinated briefs. The hair and makeup were kept simple with middle partings, sultry shadows and defined cheekbones topping off the looks. The show closed with the model of the century Cara Delevingne working a translucent armed jacket.
DAVID KOMA //
The Georgia born designer David Koma impressed yet again this season with his classic sculptural designs. The collection was very dress heavy with only three of the looks involving a trouser. Well fitting and structured designs celebrated the feminine figure with clinched waists, strong shoulders and just the right amount of leg. The show opened with a colour combo of monochrome and closed with an even stronger splash of contrasting cobalt and lilly white. Sexiness was also incorporated through subtle leather accents, cage style cut outs and asymmetric skirts. Spring Summer looks set to be feminine power and confidence by the looks of Komas recent offerings.
HOUSE OF HOLLAND //
Henry Hollands latest ready to wear show emulated everything teenage dream. Designed with a ‘London girl’s aesthetic in mind’, the unique collection celebrated summer in the best way possible, through loud over the top prints and unusual colours; It wasn’t orange but instead a muted coral neon and instead of the classic cobalt it was a mix of navy a sea blue. Holland used colour to his advantage and incorporated the whole spectrum into his designs. Floral inspired illustrations were also present with large tattoo artist roses emblazed across tan t-shirt dresses. Intricate metalics were clashed with religious inspired designs of the virgin mary, suggesting a more toned down side to Hollands usually bold prints. The show closed with a spaghetti strapped slip and strappy sandals.
MARY KATRANTZOU //
The Athens born designer opened the show with a palette of plum purples progressing into underwater greens, proving how far she’s come from her rainbow spectrum for S/S12 a mere two years ago. Katrantzou kept to her trademark with entangled and perplexing prints ranging from more futuristic straight edge design to more summer garden style illustrations. The silhouettes also adhered to her normal style, with classic styles given a Katrantzou cut. The collection ended with the contrast of feminine florals and shapeless styles. All in all, Mary impressed with her new range and proved she’s here for the long haul.
Yet again hosting London’s hottest models, Jourdan Dunn and Cara Delevingne walked Topshop’s new hot to trot Unique collection. Head of design Emma Farrow and Creative Director Kate Phelan took inspiration from Ibiza’s beach to club atmosphere creating a catwalk that was hot hot hot. V-necked spaghetti strap slips were also a hit on the Unique grassed catwalk with both mini and maxi styles present. The feminine style pemplum also looks set to make a return next summer with Cara sporting a deep green style paired with a runner short. No summer collection is complete without a selection of pale white, the simple styles and loose fitting garments proving perfect for a hot day on the sands of Ibiza.